Energy Saving Lamps

Contemporary Lighting

The most distinctive feature of contemporary lighting is that the designs and styles adopted try to blend in to the general home décor. The use of geometrical shapes with clean cut lines defines most contemporary light fittings.

Contemporary lighting is a practical approach to the lighting needs of a house. Task lighting is one of the main lighting needs attended to by contemporary lighting fixtures. Pendant lighting fixtures are the popular choice for task lighting solutions. Fixed over a particular area, pendant lights provide focused lighting for that particular area. Work desks, breakfast nooks and counter tops in kitchens are the usual places where pendant lights are used. Colored glass pendants are one of the most popular types of contemporary lighting fixtures used.

Contemporary lighting fixtures also incorporate the use of clear and colored crystals and finely cut glass shaped into flowers and other interesting shapes. Marbleized, frosted, gold and silver are some of the effects imparted to glass for use in varying contemporary lighting fixtures. Swarovski crystals and Murano glass are examples of some fine materials that are used to create exquisite pieces of contemporary lighting.

There is an increasing awareness the world over about the proper utilization of the world?s scarce energy resources. Energy saving lamps have been introduced everywhere to minimize wastage of energy and optimize its utilization. Several contemporary lighting fixtures use energy saving lamps as their light source. People with a sense of social responsibility make conscious choices of using energy saving light sources. The availability of varied designs of contemporary lighting fixtures ensures that such people do not have to compromise on looks as a result of opting for energy saving light sources.

Recessed lighting, pendant lighting, track lighting, wall sconces, portable lighting fixtures, accent lighting and several other types of ornamental lighting can be categorized as contemporary lighting.

When a user is clear about the kind of lighting he requires, the market can give him a wide range of choices to suit his needs. The variety of lighting fixtures available is sure to delight a consumer and fulfill his needs to satisfaction.

Lighting provides detailed information on Lighting, Home Lighting, Outdoor Lighting, Landscape Lighting and more. Lighting is affiliated with Ceiling Lighting Fixtures.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ken_Marlborough

Flexible Track Lighting

Flexible track lighting is also called a track light or track fixture is a light that is mounted on a metal track that is electrified. People find that this style of lighting is a viable alternative to the traditional wired lamps and fixed lighting. Consumers also like it because it is very adaptable to practically any environment. It allows homeowners and designers to use their creativity when setting up lighting in a room.

Flexible track lighting is a good way to provide accent lighting in any room or to provide accent lighting to a particular piece of art or architecture. Before you purchase any lighting, you will need to determine how much of it you will need. You can combine different lengths of track to reach your desired overall length. This style of lighting is able to wrap around corners and you can create a cross pattern using the different connectors that are available.

Flexible track lighting is found in museums, restaurants, hotels, conference rooms, libraries, retail outlets, offices, galleries and many other locations due to its versatility. Once the lighting is installed, you have the ability to change the positioning by redirecting the light or by removing or adding to your setup.

Once your flexible track lighting system is installed, remember that you can always add to it if needed later. If you plan to do the installation yourself, there are some tools that you will need. Here is a list of the tools required for the job:

Voltage tester
Screwdrivers
Ladder
Wie strippers
Drill and bits
Track
Track connectors
Cover plate
Bulbs
Lighting heads
Toggle bolts or screws

When installing, the individual flexible track lighting fixtures can be positioned anywhere on the track. They also can be rotated in any position and then pointed in any direction as well. This flexibility allows to change the position of the lighting at any given time. Just follow the manufacturer’s instructions if you are going to the work yourself. Remember, that the first step in any electrical job is to turn off the power to the circuit you are working on. Test with a voltage tester to make sure the power is in fact off. If you are not comfortable with this type of work then hire a contractor who has the skills to do the job right.

Our site contains information for all your lighting needs including cable lighting systems and flexible track lighting

by D. Karlson

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Karlson

Kickbike – A Kick Butt Lower Body Workout

See it to believe it … use it to FEEL it!!

Fancy a lower body workout that’s fun and competitive?

Welcome to the world of KICKBIKING! You’ve gotta see it to believe it!

WHAT’S A KICKBIKE ANYWAY?

A Kickbike is a scooter/bicycle hybrid. It features a scooter platform, front tyre like a bicycle and back tyre like a scooter. It’s not pedal-powered but it IS person-powered! You wanna move? It’s all up to you! Unless you’re on a downhill slope and then gravity’s your best friend in the whole wide world!

Kickbike was designed by Hannu Vierikko, a Finnish doctor who ran marathons and wanted to get in shape without injuring his joints. The Kickbike is the fastest scooter in the world!

WHAT KIND OF WORKOUT DOES IT GIVE?

It uses the same muscles as running, yet is lower impact. In fact, a Kickbike workout uses even more muscles than running. It’s propelled by pushing off with alternate legs in a motion very similar to running.

Over hilly terrain, twenty minutes on a Kickbike equals around one hour and fifteen minutes on a road bike.

WHO’D USE A KICKBIKE?

Kickbike is a decidedly grown up scooter! It’s not going to fold up so you can tuck it under your arm and head to the 7-Eleven for a Big Gulp. It’s not the kind of thing you’ll trade for Pokemon Cards with your school buddies. It’s a serious workout machine and deserves a little respect.

- The Australian Kickbike Racing Team can’t imagine life without it!

- Women love it for the definition it helps them build up in their backsides and thighs.

- Athletes use it for training.

- Dog-sledders ride their Kickbike while their canine team lead them over the course.

- Enthusiasts regularly hold and attend tournaments and events all over the country and the world!

4 DIFFERENT MODELS

The designers of Kickbike developed four different styles to suit a range of exercise and transportation needs.

THE CITY CRUISER: It’ll have you you running errands in style, while turning your legs and backside into the envy of your friends! Kick leisurely in the park, improve your overall fitness and attract glances while you do it! The City Cruiser’s upright position and enhanced wheels maximise rider form and comfort.

THE X-COUNTRY: Go off-road, up mountains, along streams, wherever your inclination takes you! With front fork suspension and disk brake, you can go hard and get dirty!

THE SPORT CLASSIC: The durable tires are fast on city streets, but still provide traction and comfort on country roads. Functionally designed, the ergonomic frame, slick rims and lowered handlebars, further enhanced with an angle adjustable stem, make it the best cross-trainer available.

THE MILLENNIUM RACER: The MR is for the athlete in search seeking the best equipment and peak experiences without compromise. Every detail has been considered with speed and lightness in mind. This is truly the fastest scooter money can buy.

THE WHEEL DEAL: Kickbike is made from high-tech bicycle components like aluminium alloy handlebars and Trans X components, which are found in many high-end mountain bikes. There are no chains or gears and no bicycle grease. They weigh around eight and a half kilograms and you can carry two in the back of a car!

WHAT ELSE? Well, so many people are talking Kickbiking, that you don’t have to look far for enthusiastic repartee! There are Yahoo Groups, websites devoted to the sport, and there’s even a Podcast for Kickbikers!

Do not underestimate Kickbike for a kick-butt workout … and have fun doing it!

Gina Lofaro is the owner of Live It Up Lifestyle Products (http://www.liveitup.net.au) and, along with Kickbike, sells juicers, dehydrators, coffee machines, food smokers, intimate area shavers, health books and more. She also runs her own successful copywriting business (http://www.ginalofaro.com.au).

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gina_Lofaro

Simple Things for the "Sailing Life"

Owning a boat has an oxymoronic quality to it. “The simple life” can be pretty complex–I think of it as having a plane, a car, and a house compressed into a very small space. This specialized environment calls for specialized equipment and tactics…sometimes. In spite of what marine retailers would like us to think, there are a number of ‘normal’ (and inexpensive) items that we can put to very efficient use aboard our boats. For example:

For easy lighting that won’t impair your night vision, stock red cellophane (the kind you get in rolls in a gift wrap store) and rubber bands. Cut squares to fit over flashlights and rubber band them in to place.

Forget buying purpose-made bag clips. Clothespins can do double duty by securing laundry to the life lines as well as keeping the bag of potato chips (or whatever) closed. And only use rubber covered clothespins–the metal hinges on the wooden ones rust out in about five seconds in a marine environment.

When the clothes dryer eats a sock, don’t throw away its mate. Save those unmatched socks to use as jar and bottle covers aboard the boat. They provide good shock absorbency.

If you haven’t completely switched over to a digital camera, you should have plastic film canisters hanging around. Reuse them for storage aboard the boat–small fittings, pill boxes, herbs/spices, anything small that needs a compact home.

Have several plastic spray bottles on board. Besides their use for cleaning solutions (e.g., a bleach/water combination for controlling mildew), they are great ‘hand showers’. Douse yourself on hot days to encourage evaporative cooling. And when you’re out on the ocean and go over the side for a bath, use a spray bottle to rinse yourself off with fresh water– works great. Just make sure you keep your cleaning solution bottles separate from your shower bottles!

If you aren’t already doing so, save your old toothbrushes for cleaning and maintenance on the boat. There are loads of tight places above and below decks where a small brush works great. One overlooked spot: Use a toothbrush to clean the inside of anchor chain links.

You can never have too many zip-locking bags. Keep several sizes available, and use them for more than just food storage. Spare parts, clothes, office equipment, medicines, and lots of other stuff will pack more compactly when transferred to zip locking bags. And reuse the bags: invert, wash, and then hang to dry with those double-duty clothespins.

These are just a few examples of the use of ‘non-marine’ things that have a place aboard a boat.

(c)Copyright 2004 Kerry S. Mason

About The Author

Kerry Mason is the webmaster for http://www.finesailing.com, The #1 resource on the Internet for sailing, boating and water sports enthusiasts. Be sure to visit his complete archive of articles at… http://www.finesailing.com/articles/index.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kerry_S._Mason

Nontraditional Operation of Traditional Roller Shades

For homeowners, there are so many things to do. Even remembering to turn on the water of the new house can complicate the matters. Imagine all the complex issues to go through. When decorating our windows, covering them for privacy or just finishing our rooms, we normally consider only the colors of the choice products. Still, you’ll find numerous ingenious control systems for the window treatments now available on the market. Our window coverings work better and last longer because of these developments. Roller shades are a classic choice, having been used for hundreds of years. Pull shades have springs inside to help retract them, but they are finally being replaced by the chain, or clutch, drawn roller shades.

Roller shades are usually pulled down by hand, either using a cord or the shade itself. To raise spring shades, either tug on the bottom of the shade or tassel, if there is one. But you can also see there would be issues in roller shades that are manipulated by hand.

Therefore, to deal with these issues, new control systems have been developed for these great products. They are known as chain driven control systems. To operate these roller shades, one must pull on the front or back of a chain that dangles from the top of the treatment. Either plastic or metal can be used to make this chain, since both are strong products. Metal chains are not as strong or durable as plastic chains. Many prefer metal chains on their roller shades. Since manufacturers want to produce quality roller shades that perform well and they realize that either chain material works well, they normally choose the chain material that is most cost effective.

Let’s look at the multitude of advantages to chain controlled roller shades. First and foremost, it is easier to position the shade accurately. It is quite hard to adjust a spring roller to a specific height. When adjusting the position of spring shades, you normally have to accept the position that the spring “suggests.” One of the benefits of chain roller shades is that the shade can be set to any height.

An additional benefit of the chain roller shades is that the fabric can be maintained in the same great shape as it was when initially installed. If you want to lift or lower the shade, you don’t have to touch the fabric. This can add many years to your roller shades’ life. Imagine that your window treatments no longer need to be cleaned because you have a control chain!

Chain systems are stronger and more durable than old spring systems. This is due to different types of springs in the roller shades. The new styles of springs are enclosed in a sealed case; the springs are used to keep the shade from sliding. This differs from the spring roller shades of the past in that the spring roller shade does not depend on the not so durable springs of the older spring shades. Special designs are incorporated in the new shade systems in order to permit them to have control over the larger shades; the size may often be as large as 8 feet wide and ten feet tall. With spring roller shades, these large roller shades would never have been possible.

So you may want to consider chain controlled roller shades if you want your roller shades to last a long time, remain clean or be large enough to effectively treat over-sized windows. They will provide the durability and attractiveness in window treatments that you desire. It is hard to believe that advances in medicine also are an advantage to your window treatments.

Judith Persit is a student of interior design. She started in this direction due to a search for design options in window treatments. Ms. Persit writes about roller shades

Roller shades can be a fascinating and interesting window treatment and you can learn more about shades at her website with many pictures.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Judith_Persit

Safety First With Lifting Slings

Personnel safety is priority one when it comes to lifting and moving heavy equipment and parts. OSHA reports that, “slings are the most commonly used materials handling apparatus,” and “the mishandling of materials is the single largest cause of accidents and injuries in the workplace.” [1] Whenever heavy lifting takes place, precautions must be taken to avoid the risk of accidents. Nylon, chain and wire rope slings are the most common slings, and a basic understanding of their qualities, techniques and common uses will help prevent accidents or injuries.

Nylon Sling Qualities

Nylon slings provide great strength combined with elasticity. Under a heavy load, nylon slings will absorb shock and return to their original shape after release. This combination of stretch and strength is beneficial for repeated lifting situations and tie-downs.

Should your job involve moisture or chemical exposure (alkalis not acids), nylon will not rot or deteriorate, even under repeated contact or long-term storage. Being impervious to UV light, nylon slings are safely used indoors or outdoors, in rain or shine and can withstand temperatures up to 180°F. [2]

Other benefits of nylon slings are their light weight and smooth surface. Rigging situations themselves may involve heavy and cumbersome preparation. The light weight of nylon slings make adjustments, transportation and storage of rigging equipment a simple. Certain loads may be scratched or damaged by chain or wire slings, but nylon slings have no undesired effects on the load itself. The flexibility of nylon gives these slings many advantages over chains or wires which are rigid and may kink when bent at sharp angles.

Extra features are built into the nylon slings themselves for enhanced safety and performance. As the nylon sling wears over time, red indicator yarns at the core of the sling will warn the user of any cuts or damage. Chemical compounds are also infused into these slings to seal out dirt and foreign particles enhancing the sling’s grip. Any signs of scorching, cuts or wear should caution the user of potential dangers.

Chain Slings

Chain slings are made of an alloy steel and provide a powerful lifting option. Unlike nylon slings, chain slings have no shock absorbancy and can snap. These slings should be inspected for nicks, gouges, stretching or other signs of wear before being used. [3] Different metal endings can be fixed to chain slings allowing for a variety of hitching options. Because of the rough metallic surface, chain slings should not be used for basket or choker hitches with a delicate or aesthetic load. Any situation which might cause abrasion or crush the sling itself should be prevented as this may compromise the integrity of the sling.

The properties in a chain sling allow it to lift loads of 1000° F or repeatedly lift loads of 600° F according to manufacturers specifications. [4] Chain slings are also impervious to any UV damage making it safe to consistently use in the outdoors.

Wire Rope Slings

Wire rope slings are made from twisting wire fibers over a core of fiber (flexible but susceptible to damage) or wire (less flexible but resistant to damage). Because of the intricate nature of these slings, they are susceptible to fatigue from repeated bending, abrasion or abuse. Any fraying, cuts, or unwinding should be recognized as signs of this fatigue. Wire rope slings should not be exposed to moist working conditions as they may rust and corrode. During storage these slings should be kept in ventilated areas and off of the floor. Wire rope slings are lubricated when manufactured but should also be lubricated at the worksite. The frequency and thoroughness of lubrication varies and depends upon the weight of the load and bending imposed on the sling. OSHA advises that less flexible ropes, such as wire rope, should be used when a load needs to be “moved through or over abrasive materials.” [5]

Sling Hitches

Heavy lifting situations rely primarily upon the quality of the sling material itself. Even with a superior nylon sling, poor sling techniques can cause damage to the loads or cause accidents. Because of the various demands of rigging situations, different hitching and lifting techniques have been developed.

The vertical hitch is the simplest lifting technique. What tow-lines are to pulling, vertical hitches are to lifting. Vertical hitches may use any of the endless, eye and eye, or triangle endings. One end of the line is attached to the load via hook or link and the other end is attached to the lifting rig (e.g. crane). In this simple rigging, the one vertical line bears the entire weight of the load making the strength of the line an important factor.

Bridal hitches are formed with two to four separate lines. While it should never be assumed, this option allows for even distribution of weight and strength with careful analysis and application. The angle of the sling in respect to its load becomes important with any non-vertical rig. Because “the load stress on each leg increases as the angle

decreases,” [6] rigging lines should rarely dive below 30°. At this angle each line will bear the full weight of the load itself. Any non-vertical hitch should at least maintain a 45° angle.

Basket hitches are a single continuous sling which is wrapped around a load. This option requires attention to the angles of the line. As with other hitches, sling strength is the greatest when at a 90° angle and has decreasing strength with a decreasing angle. To provide greater stability, two slings can be used to form a double basket hitch. Double basket hitches should be kept at angles greater than 60° to prevent slippage. When security of the load is needed, the sling(s) can be wrapped around the object(s) twice.

A choker hitch is made by wrapping the sling around the load and re-attaching the end of the sling to the line itself. This hitch allows for multiple slings for stability and/or double wrapping for security. This hitch is commonly applied with cranes and allows for a single weight-bearing line. As with other hitches, twist in the line can cause the load to rotate. Nylon slings with certain endings can prevent this potential hazard.

The use of slings is not restricted to lifting heavy loads. Many jobs require objects to be securely tied down and slings provide excellent tie-down abilities. Nylon and chain slings are commonly used to tie down loads on trucks, boats and pallets. When fixed with a ratchet, the tightness of the nylon sling can be adjusted to provide heightened security. The environmental endurance, inherent strength, smooth surface and elastic properties make nylon slings the preferred choice not only for heavy lifting, but also for tie-downs. Chain slings provide a strong option that will not stretch when strained and that is also resistant to UV light and moisture.

Remember, equipment and parts can be replaced, workers cannot. Always err on the side of caution!

Paul Galla, President

1 http://www.osha.gov/Publications/osha3072.html

2, 4, 5 http://www.osha.gov/doc/outreachtraining/htmlfiles/slings.html

3 http://web.princeton.edu/sites/ehs/healthsafetyguide/B15.htm

6 http://www.tpub.com/content/engine/14080/css/14080_99.htm

Paul Galla, President

Industrial-Rigging.Com

http://www.industrial-rigging.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Galla

Stainless Steel Chains

Many businesses or industry sectors may suffer failed machinery, which in turn could lead to a loss of productivity if they are using the wrong type of chain within their machinery and applications. However in order to make sure you are using the right chain you need to analyse your working environment and find out which chain is best suited to the demands of the job that needs to be done. In the case of stainless steel chains they have many uses and without them your business or industry sector could end up suffering. So what are the main uses of stainless steel chains?

One of the main examples of the use of stainless steel chains is if you are working in an industry or an area with a high exposure to water/sea water, for example boating, yachting or a marine environment. The reason for this is the fact that these chains have excellent corrosive resistance, which is also why they are the chain of choice for aspects where public hygiene is important such as medical applications, hospitals catering and the food industry. They are also widely used in the chemical industry and the manufacturing industry.

As well as being used in an array of different industry sectors, stainless steel chains can be brought in pretty much whatever size you need them as they can be cut to specific lengths. The customisation of them doesn’t however stop here! You are able to purchase stainless steel chains in a raw condition or they can be finished to, again, meet your specification. So if you need them to be supplied on hooks, reels, cut to length or assembled to meet requirements then you can. The flexibility that you get with stainless steel chains is another reason as to why they are used in a vase array of industries as they are suitable to more than one type of machinery or application, this is a point that is also backup up by the fact that these chains come in either link (short or long) or roller chains.

A stainless steel chain provides high strength and due to this fact they are used in extreme environments in order to provide added longevity. So basically if you are involved in an industry where a lot of pressure is used or if you work in an environment that is acidic or alkaline then this type of chain can handle it; they are designed to be used in this way. On top of this, and what I mentioned previously, these chains are also ideal if your work involves temperatures of -40°C to +400°C where resistance to corrosion is a requirement.

Other aspects and features of stainless steel chains that are important to the job that they do are as follows:

• They allow a bearing pressure of up to 14.7 Mpa

• A special surface treatment is placed on them in order to provide maximum resistance to wear

• All of the rounded parts on them are specially treated in order to provide extreme long life

• They have the highest quality appearance

• Provide a resistance to corrosion

• They retain a compliance to hygiene within food and pharma applications

Stainless steel chains are the chain of choice and necessity of many industries and after looking into it, it is easy to see why so make sure that if your business falls into categories such as the above that you opt for a stainless steel chain.

For all of your Stainless Steel Chains needs get in touch with Howcroft Industrial Supplies today.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Helen_Cox

Concrete Wedge Anchors & Their Many Uses

Wedge Anchor Introduction

“Wedge Anchor” is a generic term for a type of anchor used to fasten a variety of materials to concrete. Some companies have different brand names for their wedge anchors such as Kwik Bolt, Power Stud and Thunderstud. The different brands of wedge anchors all work on the same principles, are made from the same basic materials, and provide similar high quality performance.

What is a Wedge Anchor?

Wedge anchors consist of two separate pieces that are permanently pre-assembled into a single unit. The first piece is a carbon steel rod that is threaded for a portion of its length. The opposite end, the installed end of the anchor, has a necked-down diameter, or conical space, that tapers outward back to the rod’s full diameter.

The second piece of the wedge anchor is a steel clip, or sleeve, that is permanently assembled around the conical section of the rod. Each wedge anchor also requires a nut and washer to complete installation.

Wedge anchors can be used in numerous applications as long as the base material is solid concrete. Unlike many other concrete fasteners, the wedge anchor cannot be used in brick or block.

The wedge anchor is simple to use and is available in a wide variety of diameters and lengths. Wedge anchors can be used in both light and heavy duty applications. A 1/4″ x 1-3/4″ wedge anchor, for instance, would be utilized in a light duty application, while a 1-1/4″ x 12″ anchor would be used in a situation that requires a heavy duty anchor.

How Does a Wedge Anchor Work?

Again, wedge type concrete fasteners are designed for use in solid concrete only. They are designed to go into a pre-drilled hole in concrete. Once installed, these wedge anchors can not be removed without destroying the concrete. The size of the anchor is always equal to the size of the hole that needs to be drilled into the concrete. The tolerance between the hole and the anchor is very tight. As the anchor is hammered into the hole, the clip is recessed in the gap of the conical space, allowing the anchor to penetrate the hole. To set the anchor, the rod must be pulled-up (which occurs while the nut is being tightened), making the clip move outward on the tapered space, wedging itself between the rod and the wall of the hole.

Since the hole tolerance is critical in the performance of the wedge anchor, it is important that the correct drill and drill bits are used. A hammer drill should be used rather than a standard power drill because it creates a better quality hole. A carbide-tipped masonry bit should also be used because they are specifically designed for use in hammer drills and meet ANSI standards.

Wedge Anchor Holding Values

When anchoring into concrete, wedge anchors are an excellent choice because of their holding values. The holding power of the wedge anchor, as with any anchor, is always dependent on the quality of the concrete. As a rule of thumb, a safety factor of 4:1, or 25%, is generally accepted as a safe working load. Holding values are also derived from the depth of the embedment- the deeper the embedment, the better the holding values. The wedge anchor must be embedded into the concrete up to or past the minimum embedment depth to obtain published holding values. It is also essential to ensure that the anchors are not placed too close together or too close to an unsupported edge.

The pressure exerted on the concrete by a wedge anchor can be best described as cone-shaped, with the small end of the cone being the inserted end of the anchor and the large end of the cone being at the surface of the concrete. If two wedge anchors are set too close together, the pressure from the two anchors would intersect, decreasing the holding values of both anchors. These same factors apply when placing an anchor near an unsupported edge. It is possible for the concrete to crumble under pressure if the concrete anchor is placed too close to the unsupported edge.

The general recommendation is that an anchor should be placed no closer than five diameters from any unsupported edge. For example, a 1/2″ diameter anchor should be at least 2-1/2″ from any unsupported edge of concrete. Also, two anchors should never be set less than ten diameters from each other. That is, two 1/2″ diameter wedge anchors should be placed at least 5″ apart.

Determining the Correct Size Wedge Anchor to Use

The diameter of the wedge anchor required for an application usually depends on the size of the hole in the fixture to be fastened. The “fixture” could be anything from a 2×4 to a piece of angle iron, bracket or steel plate. The hole size in the fixture is most often determined by an engineer based on the necessary holding values for each particular application. It is imperative to ensure that the concrete wedge anchor fits through the hole in the fixture. A 1/2″ wedge anchor is, in reality, slightly larger than 1/2″.

Each wedge anchor diameter is available in a variety of lengths. The length required needs to be determined for each application and is dependent upon the thickness of the fixture to be fastened, plus the minimum embedment. To determine the length of anchor needed, simply add the thickness of the fixture to be fastened to the minimum embedment for the wedge anchor diameter being used, plus the thickness of the nut and washer (typically the diameter of the anchor is close to the thickness of the nut and washer).

This will give you the minimum length of anchor required. Using a longer wedge anchor than necessary will increase the holding values, but may increase your risk of drilling into rebar embedded in the concrete.

Wedge Anchor Installation

The installation of the concrete wedge anchor can be completed by following the steps below:

1. Determine the correct length of wedge anchor required to ensure that the minimum embedment is met and ensure that the wedge anchor fits through the hole in the fixture. The washer should also be larger than the fixture hole.

2. Using the hole in the fixture as a template, carefully drill your holes using a hammer drill and carbide-tipped masonry bit. The drill bit diameter should be the same as the wedge anchor’s diameter. It is imperative that the hole be cleared of all dust and debris. This can be accomplished by using a wire brush, compressed air or vacuum.

3. Place the washer and nut on the anchor, turn the nut a couple of turns. Not fully threading the nut protects the threads of the wedge anchor when hammering into the hole.

4. Insert the wedge anchor into the hole through the hole in the fixture.

5. Carefully hammer the anchors into each hole ensuring that the threads go below the surface of the concrete or past the edge of the fixture, and that minimum embedment is met.

6. Tighten the nut – finger tight. Use a wrench to tighten the nut 3 or 4 turns, or use a torque
wrench to ensure they are tightened to the required torque value. Do not over-torque, as the
anchor will either spin in the hole or pull out of the hole.

Please view this Wedge anchor installation video.

Wedge Anchor Torque Values

Wedge anchors require a minimum torque to set. Do not tighten the nut as tight as possible. When setting a wedge anchor, it is important that the nut only be screwed on finger tight. Each anchor diameter has a required torque value to which it must be tightened.

Length Identification Chart

Once the anchor is properly set, all that is protruding above the concrete is the nut, washer, and a portion of the threads. The diameter of the embedded anchor can easily be determined by simply measuring the stud. The length of the anchor, however, can be difficult to determine because the depth of embedment may not be known. To help identify the length of an installed anchor, an identification code has been developed. A letter is stamped on the end of the threaded portion of the wedge anchor to easily determine the length of the wedge anchor after installation. This letter corresponds to the overall length of the anchor (in inches).

Wedge Anchor Material Specifications

Concrete wedge anchors are available in different types of steel as well as different plating. The type of steel and plating to use is based on the application’s environment. Zinc-plated carbon steel wedge anchors are used in interior applications, where corrosion is not much of a factor. The anchor, nut, washer, and clip are all made of zinc-plated carbon steel. This type of plating is not recommended for use in ACQ treated lumber.

Hot-dipped galvanized wedge anchors are suited for exterior applications where corrosion from water or moisture is a concern. The anchor, nut, and washer are all made of carbon steel and are hot-dipped galvanized. The clip is made of 303 stainless steel. Hot-dipped galvanized wedge anchors are acceptable to use in ACQ treated lumber.

Wedge anchors are also produced in two grades of stainless steel. The 303 stainless steel has excellent corrosive characteristics for exterior applications and is resistant to many organic and inorganic chemicals, but should not be used in a salt water environment. The anchor is made from 303 stainless steel and the nut, washer, and clip are made of 18-8 stainless steel which is comparable to 303 stainless steel.

The 316 series of stainless steel has the best corrosion resistance and is typically used in harsh environments. The 316 stainless steel anchors can also be used in a salt water environment. All of the components in the 316 stainless steel wedge anchor are made from this resilient 316 steel.

Overview

Wedge anchors are an excellent choice when anchoring into solid concrete. These anchors have excellent holding values and are available in a range of materials and plating to meet the requirements of many applications. It is important to make certain that the correct diameter and length are used in each application to ensure that the wedge anchor is set properly and safely.

Article Written By: Bob Carlisle, President of Concrete Fasteners Tawny Sikon, Operations Manager

Concrete Fasteners, Inc has over 40 years experience selling concrete fasteners. We ship to all 50 states and many countries. We can ship out one box or a whole pallet of concrete anchors. Our products are of the highest quality, “your satisfaction is guaranteed.” We ship all orders the same day order is received.

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Aerospace Fasteners

There is a wide range of methods of joining materials, some of which are suited to general use and some which are specific to certain materials or material forms. Common methods are:

• riveting
• bolting
• bonding
• welding

Aerospace Rivets

This is the most common method of joining sheet materials in aircraft. A hole is drilled through the sections to be joined. A suitably sized rivet is put into the hole and set – the tail of the rivet is deformed so that it expands sideways and grips the sides of the hole, clamping the material together. They may be set by hand, but more often a powered riveter is used. Rivets are available with a variety of head shapes, including mushroom, snap rivets and countersunk head rivets. Where access is available to only one side, blind rivets are employed. These are hollow rivets, which are set by drawing a mandrel through the hollow rivet from the same side as the head… the mandrel then breaks off. Because blind rivets are hollow, they must generally be sealed separately. The rivet is pushed into the drilled hole, then set – the tail is deformed so that it expands sideways. The deformed tail clamps the sheets together and retains the rivet in the hole. The blind rivet may be used when access is restricted to one side. Pulling the mandrel through the rivet expands the rivet to set it, and the mandrel breaks off to leave a neat fastener. Blind rivets are hollow, and need to be plugged after setting, if sealing is required.

There is a wide variety of special rivets, each for a specific application. Aerospace Rivets may be made from any deformable material, but light alloy rivets are almost universal. An exception is the high-shear rivet, which uses a steel stem for very high shear strength, with an aluminium alloy collar that is deformed during setting to hold the rivet in place. All rivets are designed to be used in shear, and have limited strength in tension.

Alcoa Fastening Systems has through a series of aggressive acquisitions the monopoly on this particular industry, on Kaynar fasteners, Tridair fasteners, Camloc fasteners and Rosan products.

Aerospace Bolts

This is most useful where high shear loads or significant tensile loads will occur at the joint. Aluminium bolts are available for shear applications, but generally steel bolts are preferred for most applications. In most airframe applications, the fasteners must be locked to ensure that the nut and bolt do not loosen under vibration or temperature changes. A variety of methods can be used, including split pins, wire locking and clinch nuts. For bolts fitted to blind holes, wire locking is the most common method.

http://www.aviation-database.com has lots of resources for the aerospace industry.

The web is a vast source of information. Aviation-database collects the aerospace industry into one huge database of contacts.

Aerospace Fasteners Ltd is just one example of a UK supplier.

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Do it Yourself Shower Faucet Replacement

If you are not a plumber you will be one after reading the do it yourself information on shower faucet replacements. Contrary to popular belief replacing shower faucets is not a mammoth task. It can be very simple provided you follow the correct steps.

There are many kinds of shower faucets available in the market today. Some are washer type faucets and some are washer-less. There are different reasons why you will need to replace shower faucets. The washer might have worn out, stem may be corroded or the problem may be in washer seat and cartridge. Whatever may be the reason, with the correct set of tools the job can be done in a jiffy.

To replace washer type faucets shut off the water supply of the entire house. Then remove the faucet handle by turning the screw clockwise. This can be done with the help of screw driver. After that remove the stem and examine the threads. If they are corroded or worn out then take them to a retailer. If the stem is dirty clean it. If the brass screws are corroded you can replace them too. Take a look at the washer seat. If they are worn out you can reface them using seat dress tool. As faucets are available in various shapes and sizes do remember to install the correct faucet washer. Some stems use O ring. In such cases replace the rings too.

If it is a noisy faucet then the problem may be in the loose washer. In such cases remove the faucet and tighten the washer. The faucets might be noisy due to poor design and construction also. When threading the stem back in faucet body try moving the stem up and down. If it moves then entire faucet may have to be replaced.

In washer-less faucets you will need to replace the working parts. Pre-packaged kits are available. Just follow the instructions carefully.

The diaphragm type faucets are similar to washer type faucets. Here instead of washer you will have a disc. To replace these you need to remove the handle and the stem. If the rubber diaphragm does not come out with the stem it may be still inside the faucet. In such cases, use pliers to peel it from the faucet. Then replace the diaphragm around the disc.

In ball type faucets there will be a ball inside to control hot and cold water. Due to improper ring tension the handle may be leaking. In these cases you will have to replace all the working parts of the faucet. You may need the help of spanner or hex wrench. If the ball is coated with scale you will need to clean it.

For cartridge type faucets you will need to remove the handle. Then there will be a swing spout which needs to be removed. Using a screw driver pull out the retainer clips and then cartridge can be pulled with the help of pliers. While replacing the cartridge, use silicon-grease to lubricate the cartridge.

Remember to :

Always read the installation manual.
While soldering copper pipes make sure you remove the cartridge. This is because the excess heat generated may damage the smaller parts in faucet body.
Clean out the faucet body with a wet cloth after you finish soldering to remove the flux.
Always have an access panel on the opposite wall behind the faucet. This will make it easier to install a new faucet in the future.

Learn exactly how to generate 100’s or even 1000’s of positively *BRILLIANT* Bathroom Remodeling Ideas … F-A-S-T ! And here are 25 Dirt Cheap Home Improvement Ideas that could increase the value of your home by several $1000’s …

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